A person with backpacking gear walks off a ferry into the town of Whittier, Alaska on a foggy day.

Car-free to Alaska? Yes. You Can.

When mid-pandemic I learned that the Alaska Marine Highway made it possible to travel to Alaska without driving or flying — I hate flying — my mind was blown. I never really thought about trying a trip to Alaska, because I assumed that once I arrived, there would be no way for me, as someone who can’t drive, to get to trailheads or really do much of anything else. And if you’re going to a state that is half the size of the continental U.S., you want to get around, you know?

But now you’re telling me I can hop off Amtrak and board a ferry that is a destination in itself as it cruises the fjords and bays of the PNW?

And then you’re telling me that actually, there are quite a few towns and cities along the ferry route, like Juneau, Ketchikan, or Sitka, where I could embark on some backcountry trips because they are small and walkable and also have some decent transit or taxi or shuttle options? Or I can just get a motel and do a bunch of day hiking? Or rent a kayak? Or charter a fishing trip, if I was into that? Or bicycle (or hike) 32 miles of trail in and out of town?

And THEN you’re telling me that I can walk off the ferry in Whittier and hop on a scenic AF train to Denali National Park and that once I’m at Denali, I can take my pick of bus service for just about every kind of traveler?

Yes, I can do all that. You can, too.

NB: 1) Thanks to Eric of @wechoosethemoon for featured photo above – there he’s stepping off the ferry at Whittier. Thanks also to Eric for supplementing my inspiration with first-hand information. 2) This is the kind of trip most people will need to invest significant planning time to pull off — coordinating train and ferry schedules, plus details for your various destinations. 3) Right now the Alaska Marine Highway is struggling with funding and staffing; if you try to jump on a boat this summer, you’ll likely have fewer choices for departure date. Be aware and prepared!

The view out to Birch Bay from a Whatcom Transportation Authority bus. The tide is low so the shoreline is off in the distance. It's a cloudy day and a peninsula sits off in the distance on the right.

Quick Guide to Whatcom County Transit Treks

One surprising thing I’ve found putting together The Transit Trekker Manual is that a few of the smaller transit agencies or their partners have created transit-based recreation guides. It’s less common that I come across these from larger agencies, TriMet in Portland being one exception (but also: not in Washington state). Whatcom Transportation Authority is one of those smaller systems — they’ve published this overview of some of the parks and trails served by bus routes.

The guide doesn’t include some of the most scenic trips you can take; I’ll be including quite a few of those in the manual, like Birch Bay, as seen in the image above.